FIRENZE

 

FIRENZE

OCTOBER 7, 2021

Florence is such an elegant old city. Thankfully, it's warmer than when we were here in 1978! I remember that early January bitter cold. I huddled by a vent in our hostel hallway to dry my hair after washing it in a cold shower. The matron was not happy with me and I was brusquely shooed back to the room we all shared. Tim and I are definitely in a different place in every way these days. We've tried to locate the building in which we stayed, but our memories are fuzzy. We do remember, however, walking into the Duomo with awe; and visiting Giotto's Bell Tower with the famous lecture of North Park's Zenos Hawkinson resounding in each of our minds. It was inspirational then, as it is now. We actually got to climb up to the inside and outside of the Duomo, all 463 steps. A convoluted and strenuous climb, but absolutely worth the effort. We were dumbstruck by the view and the magnificence of the cathedral. How did they build such beautiful, plumb lines and marble work with the crude, hand-hewn tools they had available in the 15th century? We arrived at the top just before noon, which meant we were there when the 12 o'clock bells started ringing all over the city. 

Later in the afternoon we had scheduled a climb of the Bell Tower-a mere 414 steps up. It was sensational. Wow! Although not as high as the Duomo, it was beautiful and glorious to be there when the clock struck 5 and then 6. The winds were wild out of the north, but we hung on and walked around and around the parapet, much like we did years ago. It was gratifying to look out over the city and realize we already recognized many historical sites and favorite spots. A hearty dinner in a cafe that serves gluten free pizza followed and we returned to our apartment across the Arno reflecting on the week we've had so far. 

We have explored the Uffizzi Gallery, some of the Palazzos, and many of the Piazzas, including the Piazza della Signoria where "Room With a View" was filmed (one of our classic favorites). 

We've climbed some of the heights and the hills and fortresses around the city, including Santa Miniato and Forte Belvedere. St. Miniato was an Armenian merchant who was beheaded for his faith just before Christianity began to establish a foothold in the Roman world. It is said that he then picked up his own head and walked up the hill to the spot where eventually a small church was built in his memory around 783 AD. Ultimately (1207 AD) it was transformed into a majestic cathedral. In the beautiful marble crypt we saw the reliquary where his remains are said to reside.

While it's not the peaceful beauty we experienced in the Tuscan countryside, Florence has been a unique and interesting place to land before returning home. There seem to be thousands of students here from all over the world. The cost of living seems a bit lower than Rome and the neighborhoods smaller and more easily covered on foot. We enjoy the Arno by day and by night when the lights are sparkling and romantic.  I'll close with some pictures of our day kayaking the Arno with a guide, a belated but long-ago-reserved birthday gift for Tim. It was a beautiful day-not too hot or windy. We learned a lot and saw the wonderful bridges from the water side.

Pax Christi!