Sabbatical Tales

  FIRENZE OCTOBER 7, 2021 Florence is such an elegant old city. Thankfully, it's warmer than when we were here in 1978! I remember that early January bitter cold. I huddled by a vent in our hostel hallway to dry my hair after washing it in a cold shower. The matron was not happy with me and I was brusquely shooed back to the room we all shared. Tim and I are definitely in a different place in every way these days. We've tried to locate the building in which we stayed, but our memories are fuzzy. We do remember, however, walking into the Duomo with awe; and visiting Giotto's Bell Tower with the famous lecture of North Park's Zenos Hawkinson resounding in each of our minds. It was inspirational then, as it is now. We actually got to climb up to the inside and outside of the Duomo, all 463 steps. A convoluted and strenuous climb, but absolutely worth the effort. We were dumbstruck by the view and the magnificence of the cathedral. How did they b...

TUSCANY II  OCTOBER 6, 2021 Let me tell you about the Medieval Tower we stayed in for two nights in Radda. We were told it would be a tower but it was actually the very end of a stretch of tall stone homes (4 or 5 stories each ) on the narrow streets of a walled medieval town, Radda-in-Chianti. The first flight of stairs led to a living room and kitchen, second flight led to a bedroom and sitting room, and the top floor had been renovated into a master bedroom with a terrace looking out over the town and the Tuscan hills. Each floor had large airy windows on 3 sides, opening up over the streets where shop vendors and offices opened mid-morning. The views were stunning, the townspeople were friendly and the streets were quiet and peaceful at night. And we were not even 25 meters from the church bell tower, and could watch it from the terrace. It became another couple of days measured by rich, resounding music. Radda even had a kind o...

 TUSCANY-WOW SQUARED SEPTEMBER 28, 2021 We are really appreciating the natural beauty and quiet of Tuscany. It's such a contrast to the noise, lack of green space, and busyness of Trastavere and Rome in general. We are once again surrounded by peaks, albeit smaller ones than in Austria. Our Secret Garden lodging has been perfect; a friendly, happy, oasis of goodness. We have met friends here-especially one Pierre from Quebec. He is an ICU nurse taking a break from the difficulties of nursing during this season. He's biking all over Tuscany, taking a 4 day respite and has given us many tips about where to go and what is wonderful to see. He knows the terrain well from having biked this area many times. We have exchanged many life stories (story-stones!) while sitting in our beautiful little courtyard sipping espresso. There is a pet rabbit named Todd who nibbles at our feet and many tiny lizards scurrying here and there; birds flying to and fro. It's edenic.     We started...

WALKING HISTORY  September 24, 2021 Oh, how we have walked these days in Rome. Our average over the past 2 weeks has been 5 miles a day. In the glaring sun and heat. We've walked and stopped to read, or discuss, or ask questions, or take photos and then we've walked some more. That's been our job. We've worked hard at it and added to our "wonder" bucket, which is overflowing! And we've learned a lot. What a true privilege to be able to be on a mission to explore and learn; as well as to play and celebrate. Here are some of our treasured walking places:  The "cripta," or crypts under St. Peter's Basilica.  We had to reserve this tour months ago. It is thought that the Apostle Peter's remains were found here marked by some early graffiti (of course!) in a wooden box a small distance from the "official" monument constructed in the early centuries after Christ. The tour was a gradual descent into the narrow, dark hallways 2 levels u...

 TRASTEVERE SEPTEMBER 20, 2021 We've fallen in love with Trastevere (Traz-STAY-vary).  a romantic, lively neighborhood south of the Vatican and west of the Tiber, across from central Rome-with all of it's ancient piazza's and even more ancient ruins. Trastevere has it's own share of very old piazza's and churches and interesting history, and it has been our "home" for the past 2 weeks. As I described in the last post, there are street bands with amazing talent, as well as sidewalk trinket sellers and street upon winding street of fantastic trattorias, ristorantes, gelaterias, bars and sidewalk cafe's of every kind. Did I mention the graffiti? Most of the narrow streets are tagged in one way or another. Thankfully, historic sites are usually spared, but there are messages and colorful artwork in most public spaces. Our Italian friend from the refugee center believes that Trastevere is truly Roman, where families and couples head for a night out. It cert...

Wow-Rome  Thursday, September 16, 2021 Rome is a huge contrast to our orderly, fresh, clean stays in Austria and Germany. It's got a certain gritty worldliness that's kind of growing on us. There are all sorts of humanity here; various ethnicities, languages, attire, tattoos, sales techniques, expressions of emotion, musical genres shared on the streets, senses of humor and pride, etc. And of course, we are awed by the layers and eras of art, history and architectural works. We're struck by the increase of noise in general. Our flat is connected to some 12 others off our back balcony in the middle of Trastavere, with red-tiled roofs coming in at all angles.  Some rooftops have terraces with flowers and vines hanging over the sides and canopies overhead. The flat is narrow and long front to back. Our third floor window over the cobblestoned street looks out over a very busy area full of cafes-with tables just below us, art galleries, book shops, tobacconists...