RAINBOWS

Rainbows near Bruck

September 9, 2021

Breath-taking is the best word I can find that captures the beauty of the Austrian Alps. Each village and town was uniquely picturesque. But most precious of all to us are our friends, the Schenets. The legacy of history and caring is 4 generations in the making. We've learned even more about this history over the past week. Felix Schenet, 18, picked us up on the outskirts of Munich on Tim's birthday (September 3rd), and we traversed the mountains as we drove southward to several special places he wanted to show us en route to Bruck. The stops were increasingly beautiful as we drove into Austria from Bavaria. The most meaningful were the detours to see the emblem of the Rainbow Division painted on the rock face of two different passes which marked the progress of Norbert (Tim's father) and his army group into the Salzburg region and into the lives of this family in the small village of Bruck. Felix has made a special study of the Rainbow Division for school and was exceedingly helpful in recovering some of that history for us, as well. Felix acted as our chauffeur, guide, teacher and translator and became a dear young friend.

We also spent hours with Siegfreid, who was 4 years old in 1945, the year of the Allied victory and the Austrian liberation. Siegfried and his wife, Trude told us many stories of those early days and the years following. There are funny stories about Tim's dad in 1945 and from later visits (like the time his pants split when he crouched to capture a photo), and intriguing stories about Siegfreid and Trude's own adventures in the years since. We had precious time with Siegfried's daughter Karin, her partner Mike and grandson Felix (above). We were lavished with Austrian hospitality, food, and a true generosity of time. 

One of our first days was spent hiking with Siegfried in the hills surrounding town. It was a vigorous hike and a beautiful way to become re-oriented with the area. Tim and I had visited them in Bruck together in the winter of 1978, as  20 year-olds. Those memories became more vivid as the days went on. The next day was spent climbing a steep gorge, thundering with glacial run-off from the knife-sharp Kitzsteinhorn Peak.  It was exhilarating. That evening we relaxed together with Siegfied and Felix at a Biergarten in Bruck. We sat at a table that must have weighed at least a ton, made of mountain shale with a base of rock. We heard more stories and ate our fill, tasted the local wine and beer and walked for blocks through town afterward, before heading back to our hotel which is only 2 doors down from the Schenet home. 

Our next days were filled with adventures of all kinds. We hiked and rode the tram in turns up the Schmittenhoe Mountain, a popular Alpine ski area in Zell Am See. Karin, Felix, Tim and I ate a delicious late lunch on a terrace high in the clouds while watching hang gliders float past us as we sat at our table.

Another day we drove up the Alpine Highway. The zero mile-marker is at the corner of the Schenet's street and extends 48 kilometers southward to the Grossglockner, the highest peak in Austria. The road was gorgeous beyond words. Felix served as our very able driver on treacherous turns and steep slopes. What a gift to be able to watch from the car rather than grip a steering wheel! Felix stopped over and over so that we might get out, walk, take photos and marvel at God's creation. Restored wonder has been one of our well-answered prayers.

On our last full day we traveled into Salzburg with Siegfried and Felix which allowed us to see this lovely, city on the Salzach River-Mozart's birthplace- and locate more Rainbow Division memorials. We also picked up 4 cases of Siegfried's favorite Augustiner bier, available only from the local monastery. 

We enjoyed schnitzel's and wursts, hot potato salad and dense, delicious breads. We got to eat Karin's wonderful Kaiserschmarrn with plum jam and Trude's Gugelhupf, each made with that extra ingredient of sweet, loving welcome! It was such a joy to be filled with good stories, delicious food and long-lasting friendship. We hated to leave....there were tears. We hope to return again before another 40 years pass!

Next, we're on to the Eternal City.

PAX CHRISTI