Sabbatical Tales

 TUSCANY-WOW SQUARED SEPTEMBER 28, 2021 We are really appreciating the natural beauty and quiet of Tuscany. It's such a contrast to the noise, lack of green space, and busyness of Trastavere and Rome in general. We are once again surrounded by peaks, albeit smaller ones than in Austria. Our Secret Garden lodging has been perfect; a friendly, happy, oasis of goodness. We have met friends here-especially one Pierre from Quebec. He is an ICU nurse taking a break from the difficulties of nursing during this season. He's biking all over Tuscany, taking a 4 day respite and has given us many tips about where to go and what is wonderful to see. He knows the terrain well from having biked this area many times. We have exchanged many life stories (story-stones!) while sitting in our beautiful little courtyard sipping espresso. There is a pet rabbit named Todd who nibbles at our feet and many tiny lizards scurrying here and there; birds flying to and fro. It's edenic.     We started...

WALKING HISTORY  September 24, 2021 Oh, how we have walked these days in Rome. Our average over the past 2 weeks has been 5 miles a day. In the glaring sun and heat. We've walked and stopped to read, or discuss, or ask questions, or take photos and then we've walked some more. That's been our job. We've worked hard at it and added to our "wonder" bucket, which is overflowing! And we've learned a lot. What a true privilege to be able to be on a mission to explore and learn; as well as to play and celebrate. Here are some of our treasured walking places:  The "cripta," or crypts under St. Peter's Basilica.  We had to reserve this tour months ago. It is thought that the Apostle Peter's remains were found here marked by some early graffiti (of course!) in a wooden box a small distance from the "official" monument constructed in the early centuries after Christ. The tour was a gradual descent into the narrow, dark hallways 2 levels u...

 TRASTEVERE SEPTEMBER 20, 2021 We've fallen in love with Trastevere (Traz-STAY-vary).  a romantic, lively neighborhood south of the Vatican and west of the Tiber, across from central Rome-with all of it's ancient piazza's and even more ancient ruins. Trastevere has it's own share of very old piazza's and churches and interesting history, and it has been our "home" for the past 2 weeks. As I described in the last post, there are street bands with amazing talent, as well as sidewalk trinket sellers and street upon winding street of fantastic trattorias, ristorantes, gelaterias, bars and sidewalk cafe's of every kind. Did I mention the graffiti? Most of the narrow streets are tagged in one way or another. Thankfully, historic sites are usually spared, but there are messages and colorful artwork in most public spaces. Our Italian friend from the refugee center believes that Trastevere is truly Roman, where families and couples head for a night out. It cert...

Wow-Rome  Thursday, September 16, 2021 Rome is a huge contrast to our orderly, fresh, clean stays in Austria and Germany. It's got a certain gritty worldliness that's kind of growing on us. There are all sorts of humanity here; various ethnicities, languages, attire, tattoos, sales techniques, expressions of emotion, musical genres shared on the streets, senses of humor and pride, etc. And of course, we are awed by the layers and eras of art, history and architectural works. We're struck by the increase of noise in general. Our flat is connected to some 12 others off our back balcony in the middle of Trastavere, with red-tiled roofs coming in at all angles.  Some rooftops have terraces with flowers and vines hanging over the sides and canopies overhead. The flat is narrow and long front to back. Our third floor window over the cobblestoned street looks out over a very busy area full of cafes-with tables just below us, art galleries, book shops, tobacconists...

Rainbows near Bruck September 9, 2021 Breath-taking is the best word I can find that captures the beauty of the Austrian Alps. Each village and town was uniquely picturesque. But most precious of all to us are our friends, the Schenets. The legacy of history and caring is 4 generations in the making. We've learned even more about this history over the past week. Felix Schenet, 18, picked us up on the outskirts of Munich on Tim's birthday (September 3rd), and we traversed the mountains as we drove southward to several special places he wanted to show us en route to Bruck. The stops were increasingly beautiful as we drove into Austria from Bavaria. The most meaningful were the detours to see the emblem of the Rainbow Division painted on the rock face of two different passes which marked the progress of Norbert (Tim's father) and his army group into the Salzburg region and into the lives of this family in the small village of Bruck. Felix has made a special study of the Rainbo...

  Munich  September 2, 2021 We're on day 3 in Germany, each one sparkling, azure-sky-beautiful and no warmer than 70 degrees. Our hotel is clean and bright and generous with special touches. We've totally enjoyed wandering old town Munich.  We've eaten various local wursts and other traditional fare, tasted the local Weissbier (Tim) and Radlers (Tim again!) and visited a popular bakery for amazing flourless chocolate torte (Cyd) and their colorful, delicious macarons. We found perfect seating for the early evening chiming of the Rathus glockenspiel by sitting at a sidewalk cafe in the square. We couldn't have asked for a more lovely start to this sabbatical time.   Today, however, has been an intense and sobering day. We spent hours in Dachau, revisiting the concentration camp for the first time since we were both 20 years old. We invested in a guided tour this time, which turned out to be a good choice. Our guide was a brilliant historian an...