ROMA

Wow-Rome 

Thursday, September 16, 2021



Rome is a huge contrast to our orderly, fresh, clean stays in Austria and Germany. It's got a certain gritty worldliness that's kind of growing on us. There are all sorts of humanity here; various ethnicities, languages, attire, tattoos, sales techniques, expressions of emotion, musical genres shared on the streets, senses of humor and pride, etc. And of course, we are awed by the layers and eras of art, history and architectural works.



We're struck by the increase of noise in general. Our flat is connected to some 12 others off our back balcony in the middle of Trastavere, with red-tiled roofs coming in at all angles.  Some rooftops have terraces with flowers and vines hanging over the sides and canopies overhead. The flat is narrow and long front to back. Our third floor window over the cobblestoned street looks out over a very busy area full of cafes-with tables just below us, art galleries, book shops, tobacconists, and so on...  As the day progresses, the noise level out our large front window increases, until it's full party level. Thankfully, we can close off some doors and tuck into the back and get quiet when we finally collapse. We're awakened in the morning (EACH morning) by the sounds of 1000's of wine bottles being lifted and crushed as they tumble into the daily recycling truck. It happens over and over because every trattoria in the district has sold plenty of wine. Lots of good Italian Chianti is being enjoyed!

Some of our favorites experiences. 

1.Walking hours on end. We have walked and walked. Thankfully we brought good shoes. Part of my immense joy over this lies in the fact that I was still unsteady and using a cane or trekking poles much of the time last September. I don't have poles that would have worked on these crazy streets, but I'm so thankful for Tim's arm to lean on while navigating most of these uneven surfaces. I'm sure it's not pleasant to be supporting my sweaty body over these streets, but he's my rock! 



2. Speaking of rocks, we have been visiting churches of every size and era. The largest and most dominant being St. Peter's (Peter, the rock upon which the church was built!). 
We especially love Santa Maria in Trastavere Basilica- our local church and piazza. Parts of the church date from the 4th century when Christians were just beginning to establish local meeting places. Just after sunset the lights on the cathedral are luminous against the pink stucco and bells chime the quarter hour day and night. 
Other favorites are all over the literal map...with artistic gems scattered in them here and there. Today we found a gorgeous piece- a fresco of Mary, baby Jesus, and her mother, Anna, over them both; all 3 with gold leaf halos. (Antoniazo Romano-15th c,).  This in a beautiful church dedicated to the country of Spain, San Pietro in Montorio (another rock). We came upon this when we followed some winding stairs way above Trastavere in search of a new coffee shop this morning.  We love the hush, the spires, the domes and crosses...and the signs of deep historic faith. There will be many more churches to visit as the days go on.


And, by the way, we discovered that the rocks which form the beautiful arching patterns in most of the Roman streets are not really cobblestones, but black basalt "setts". Although they fit together beautifully, they often rise up at odd angles and dip in unexpected places posing a challenge for walkers. They are cut into a specific shape, set into a sand base and are called  "sampietrinis."  It is said (according to our Vatican tour guide, yesterday)  that the word sampietrini is derived from Saint Peter, and referring to "little rocks."
  
3. Eating outside at the local cafes. Finding new foods to share, asking about the local dishes, or just ordering a coffee or glass of wine has become our routine. We've enjoyed watching people as well as starting up conversations with staff and others. We're relaxing in ways we hardly ever do at home.





4. Lastly, we LOVE the street music we've stumbled across! We've seen troubadours with guitars and violins all over the city. We are blessed to have found a "favorite" jazz band that just so happens to frequent Trastavere. It's an excellent combo; trumpet, keyboard, bass and drums. Once we saw them with a sax player, as well. A couple nights ago they set up on the walking bridge, Ponte Sisto, and it was magical in the moonlight over the water. Wow!

PAX CHRISTI


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